The Gallery: Faces

The prompt for Wk 79 of Tara's Gallery is 'faces'. This being a pseudo-anonymous blog (cue ironic laughter), that one presents me with something of a problem. No names, no pack drill, and - crucially - no identifiable faces. Other than my own, on occasion, but I figure you deserve better than that.

Russia is famously full of beautiful faces. Natalia Vodolononiavonoviifcokeo (or whatever her name is - can you tell I'm behind on my Grazia and Heat reading?), and many other supermodels hail from this land of the gorgeous. I'm not sure why Russia seems to have more than it's fair share of beauty; I suspect it's a combination of genes, eating habits, and the women here ensuring that whatever they have, they make the best of it in a way which isn't necessarily a priority to many of us from elsewhere.

Sure, Western women may not particularly like the way sexuality is used as currency here, and there's certainly a different style of dress and make-up involved, but it's a fact of life that Russian women take more noticeable care of their appearance than many of us elsewhere. Whatever else they may be, they certainly don't feel invisible as they grow older in the way that women often complain about back home.

But.

I am here to tell you, ladies, that there is a counter-culture. Women who wear their experience on their faces rather than smoothing away their wrinkles and blemishes with potions and lotions, perhaps not by choice but all the same, they don't fit the mass-export version of Russian beauty as shown in the meja.

I took this photo outside the Pushkin Museum last spring. This woman is simply sitting, probably on her break (she may well be one of Russia's redoubtable Museum Curators I refer tohere, she certainly has that look about her), enjoying the early May sunshine.

To me she looks formidable; not a bad thing to be in this city. And whatever else she may be, I would say that one thing this face isn't, is invisible.

The Gallery; Tomorrow

It's Week 54 of The Gallery (click here to see the other entries) and Tara's theme this time is 'Tomorrow'. Bless her - she does like to make life interesting, doesn't she? (Mutter mutter).

Initially I had a beautiful photograph of one of my sons all lined up. It was meant to represent all his tomorrows, and seemed to do the job quite well. I took it with a fancy camera and everything... Instead, though, I'm going to show you a snap I took with my mobile yesterday, when I took the Boys to the Darwin Museum here in Moscow. Unbelievably this museum was the first of it's kind - you have to love the Russians' lack of truck with creationism (the small 'c' was intentional, by the way; I'm not going to give it the compliment of using a capital letter) - and was established back in 1907.

Like most museums here each room is staffed by one or more scary-looking older ladies, who at first glance seem totally bored and not at all engaged by where they are. Often their sole role seems to be suck the fun out of the experience for small children, telling them to 'be quiet and for heaven's sake, stop showing so much damn enthusiasm!' The lady in the photograph below was, as you'll see, reading a magazine before Boy #2 and his friend rocked up. But after I took the photograph and looked at it properly, I reassessed.

Here she is, a lady probably in late 50's or early 60's (you might think she looks older but life can be hard here in Russia, especially for those who grew up during Soviet times, and it shows), still working. She's in an enriching and cultural environment. The chances are she's passionate about her subject and is a font of knowledge on all things Darwin and his Theory of Evolution related (if you ever engage these ladies in conversation they will usually astonish you with their depth of knowledge of the subject on display). She is looking warmly at two small boys in a way that makes me think she is probably a grandmother and enjoys her grandchildren's company. And - possibly quite importantly, for her anyway - her job allows her to sit down, read magazines, and perhaps even eat chocolate...

I don't necessarily imagine - or want - my Tomorrow to be like her Present. But if it includes some of the details I mentioned in the paragraph above, I don't think I'll be doing too badly.

London with the kids - go on, you know you want to...

Being a Brit abroad, and a long term London resident to-boot, I often get asked for my tips on London by people making short trips there. (I think this probably happens to most people who live or have lived in hot destinations for short city breaks). Over the last couple of years, to save typing - and, I have to admit, thinking - time, I've pulled together a stock e-mail that I send out in answer to such requests, and seeing a new London resident on the BMB site asking today for these sort of hints it struck me that it might not be a bad idea to share that e-mail on The Potty Diaries.

The suggestions below are my personal picks after living there for 20-odd years, 7 of those with children. Warning; they are highly subjective as a result and won't appeal to everyone...

A lot of these ideas are free, some are most definitely not, and the list is definitely central / West Central London-centric (which in no way belittles the wonderful places you could visit elsewhere), but if you're planning on visiting one of my favourite places on earth with your children, you might find them useful...

Here, then, for your delectation, are hints from The Potty Diaries on how to make the most of London on a short trip...

Let's start with the obvious: Museums and Galleries

Most - but not all - of the state-owned museums and Art Galleries are free to enter, but they also usually have paid for exhibitions running as well. To name a few:

The Natural History Museum: a must-visit for the dinosaur exhibit - get there early in the day to avoid the queues - and the incredible collection of moth-eaten Victorian stuffed animals.

The Science Museum: just around the corner from The Natural History Museum, great for interactive stuff

Victoria and Albert: wonderful if you like design-led exhibits, such as interiors, fashion and jewellery through the ages. Make sure to look up as you go in, there's an amazing blown-glass chandelier... They often have activity packs for kids, check the website to find out about this.

The British Museum ; fantastic for all things Ancient Egypt and I think also the Elgin Marbles - statues originally nicked from the Parthenon in Athens. (Am sure you will you know this but I prefer to go with too much information than too little... You might have noticed that about me by now)

The London Transport Museum; went there with the Boys and it's brilliant, much more so than it sounds. Would quite like to have been there without them and spent more time if I'm honest...

The National Army Museum in Chelsea is supposed be good but have never been round there (apart from children's parties in the Jungle Gym), as is the Imperial War Museum. Also, if you like this sort of thing, The Cabinet War Rooms are also fascinating (Husband loved it).

also,

The National Portrait Gallery, Trafalgar Square. Great location and it does what it says on the tin...

Tate Britain; again, good location (by the Thames overlooking Battersea Power Station, very iconic), and be sure to check out the paintings by Burne Jones (if you like that sort of thing, which I do), and any Turner on view

Tate Modern; probably don't need to explain this one, and again, a great location on the South Bank. Be prepared to encounter lots of kids at this one (and not understand too much of what's on show), but children seem to love it.

Shopping / Taking in the atmosphere

AVOID Oxford Street at all costs - unless you have a specific shop to go to or want to visit Selfridges, which I admit is worth the trip, or St Christopher's Place (near Selfridges) which is quite nice for a pavement cafe experience. Of course, Hamley's on Regent St is popular with the children, try not to go at the weekend though as it gets crazy. Whilst we're at it, in Knightsbridge the locals prefer Harvey Nichols to Harrods, but as they're almost next door to each other you might as well do both at the same time, and Harrods food hall is always worth a look.

Instead, trek down the Kings Road, starting at Sloane Square Tube station, stopping at Duke of York's square for an overpriced coffee and cake in the sunshine at Patisserie Valerie or the Italian deli/restaurant next door. Kings Road does have all the usual chains but also a lot more one-off boutiques so doesn't feel quite as chain-store as a lot of high streets in the UK.

For a high-end shopping experience visit Westbourne Grove in Holland Park; just a small parade of shops but very nice and with a couple of nice cafe's to visit. This can be combined with a trip to Portobello Market (go early), but be sure to leave your wallet at home because the prices are generally outrageous...

Covent Garden; Again, leave the wallet at home (nothing too unusual to buy there and mostly over-priced), but just walk around soaking up the atmosphere of this converted old fruit, veg and flower market; if you're lucky some of the performers from the Royal Opera House will be busking in one of the galleries in their lunch breaks, which is always a treat. This can be combined with a trip to the London Transport Museum, which is in the South East corner of it.

I'm also told Hampstead is nice, but have never spent much time there (North London, darling? Are you sure?).

Open Spaces

Hyde Park - obviously. Take a picnic and walk along the Serpentine (or stop in at The Dell or the Lido Cafe for a not-too expensive lunch in lovely surroundings). The cuisine is not amazing but much better than it used to be and the views make up for it. The Albert Memorial was recently done up and is also quite impressive. If you have young kids be sure to visit the Peter Pan statue and the Princess Diana playground in Kensington Gardens (essentially part of Hyde Park, at the western end), and on a Sunday morning they often have model boats on the Round Pond - also good for kids. The actual memorial fountain to Diana is a bit disappointing, but can be seen from the Lido, and if it's warm enough lots of people paddle in it.

Holland Park - a hidden gem at the far (western) end of Kensington High Street. Visit the Japanese Garden, watch the peacocks, let the kids run off excess energy, and pick up a sticky flapjack from the cafe under the Arches. If you're feeling flush book lunch at The Belvedere restaurant.

Battersea Park - south of the river so a bit more of a trek but still lovely, green and open and has a great - very small-scale & low-key - zoo. You can easily while away a morning here.

St James' Park - if you visit Buckingham Palace then you're practically there. Am coming across as a cafe freak but the restaurant in the middle of it is quite nice; Inn the Park. Very romantic if you're there in the evening, though they are not always open then. Otherwise it's open during the day for sit-down meals or you can sometimes pick up a picnic lunch there.

Walk along South Bank from Westminster Bridge past the London Eye, (worth a visit, pre-book online to avoid some of the queues),the London Aquarium (OK, doesn't compare to what they have in Florida etc, but not bad for a central city one), past the National Film Theater where you will see lots of street artists practising standing dead still, along to Gabriel's Wharf for yet more cafe culture.

Food

Pretty much anything goes, but here are a few ideas on chains:

Carluccio's - good Italian food (the chocolate ice-cream is fantastic), and great with kids as they do a very reasonably priced menu for them and provide crayons etc to keep them happy. There's one opposite South Kensington tube station if you want somewhere to go when you visit the Natural History Museum / Science Museum / V&Albert Museum.

Wagamamma's (a chain you'll find almost everywhere) for decently-priced yummy Japanese Noodles and dumplings (no sushi). Refectory-style bench seating and the kids usually love it.

Pret a Manger for yummy sandwiches and wraps

Gourmet Burger Kitchen; don't know if they compare to the real deal, I doubt it, but they are quite good

Paul's patisserie for delicious French treats (their macarrons are to die for and of course not diet). Try also their hot chocolate which is so thick you can practically stand a spoon up in it.

Strada is pretty good for pizza, as is Pizza Express

And obviously you must have a curry, but these are not usually chains so you'll need to find your own way on that one, and whilst we're talking about One-off Eating Experiences:

Head up to Soho and Bar Italia on Frith Street in the late evening if you want a coffee soaking up the bustle of London out on the town, and if you're feeling adventurous and in need of a bagel at 3am take a cab to Brick Lane and the Beigel Bake where you can get incredible hot salt beef-filled beigels or yummy cakes 24 hours a day and for an amazingly low price.

For more expensive meals try:

The Wolsey on Piccadilly - French bistro style and they always keep a few tables in a section at the front free, and you get to celeb spot too

Hakkasan near Tottenham Court Road - Delicious Chinese food, lots of media wannabe's

The Enterprise (more of a pub / bistro) on Walton Street in South Kensington. Not as expensive as the first two but usually pretty nice food.

Pubs

Not that I get to go too often and these are west London based, but they are a good start and also serve OK food:

The Anglesey Arms, Selwood Terrace in South Kensington

The Grenadier, 18 Wilton Row - hard to find, near Hyde Park Corner, but worth the effort. They serve fantastic bloody Marys on a Sunday morning and if the sun is shining have a couple of nice tables you can sit at outside with the children...

And that, I think, is quite enough for the moment...

Update:

Or it was, until I decided to put a McLinky related to this in the post above... So if you want to share your own ideas on what to do in your home town, please feel free to post and put a link in the list.