Showing posts with label Moscow traffic. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Moscow traffic. Show all posts

Monday, 26 November 2012

'The chicken & the egg', or 'The Day I Realised Creating Driving Law is Like Parenting'

Hallelujah! Rejoice, brothers and sisters, for this morning what is nominally 5 marked lanes where we join the highway on the journey to drop Husband at the nearest Metro station became not 6, not 7, not 8, but - count 'em - 9 lanes of tailgate to bumper traffic.  I think - I think - that is a record.  I'm used to counting Sixes and Sevens and, on occasion, Eights, but today was the first time in 3 years that I've seen a Nine.

The only silver lining was that for once Husband was driving, thank the lord.  This in itself is unusual on a weekday and has been so for most of our sojourn here.  It's not that he can't drive, or doesn't like to; more that invariably I am dropping him somewhere so it makes sense for him to be able to hop out of the passenger seat quickly.  Given, you know, the traffic (did I mention that already?) and everything...

Being driven by Husband through the morning rush hour was an interesting experience.  I wouldn't say I manage to achieve a zen-like state of calm when behind the wheel these days, but petty annoyances like a big 4x4 edging in in front of me, the truck and mini-van collided in the centre lane forcing the traffic to execute complicated balletic manouevres around it, or the predatory militsia lying in wait at the edge of the road for the unwary driver moving into the bus lane too early, all of these things are now simple facts of life for me.  You just have to suck it up if you want to sit behind the wheel in Moscow and let it all wash over you.  Put some easy-listening fm on the radio and simply get on with it.

Husband, however, has not had quite such a long apprenticeship as a rush-hour driver in this city. (Why would he, when muggins here will do it for the price of having the car all day?)  So as you can imagine, his running commentary on the state of the road was a little less relaxed that mine normally is.  It was after his rantings (and no, I don't think that is too strong a word) on the matter of yet another lane being created out of nowhere by chancing-it drivers that I suggested perhaps he didn't drive enough here.  It was also when I commented that the road system in Russia is very much a chicken and egg situation.

What did I mean by that?  Well, there are various draconian rules and regulations here such as those about not turning left, not crossing an unbroken white line unless you want a fine, not crossing an unbroken double white line on pain of death, or not overtaking on a bridge or in a tunnel (no matter that they may be 6 lanes wide).   After much study time spent in jams pondering this situation it recently occurred to me that this authoritarian approach is counter productive.  The Russian driver is, you see, famously resourceful and will find any way they can to speed their journey up.  Like, for example, the creation of additional lanes on the highway.  Or the not infrequent sight of a car reversing down the hard shoulder of a motorway because it has missed the turn-off.  Or even better, reversing back onto the motorway because it's taken too early a turn-off.  None of these things are actually illegal - unless they cause an accident, of course - so they are 'respectable' driving tactics in some people's minds.

But it seems to me that the road chaos is the result of an impasse.  It's a bit like being a parent, really; if you assume your child is untrustworthy and will behave badly unless you rule them with a rod of iron, chances are that the moment they are let off the leash, that's exactly what they'll do.  So it is with the roads in Moscow: the authorities have imposed a set of rules that assume the average driver is an idiot and unable to think for themselves.  But because the law assumes the average driver is an idiot, and that an individual is unable to make a rational decision about whether it is safe to overtake or turn left etc,  guess what some people behave like the first opportunity they get?*


* Of course this theory does not in any way take into account what is often a lower value placed on human life (widely recognised as an issue for some here) or what is currently still a high number of incidents of DUI, but it's my blog and I'll deal with those issues another time...

Wednesday, 4 July 2012

The Gallery: Everyday

This post is for Wk 104 of Tara's Gallery; click here to see all the other entries.

The prompt for this week's gallery is 'The Everyday'.  I toyed with showing you photos of exercise books and musical instruments (I'm attempting to impose some kind of structure on our long summer holidays by ensure that 5 days in 7 the Boys do some kind of school work, boring mum that I am), or even just showing you a bowl of Weetabix but really, there is no question what a photograph of every day life in Moscow should show you.

It's not pretty, I warn you.

Even in the relatively quieter summer holidays, this is what you will probably encounter on any trip, anywhere, on wheels in Moscow.














You develop coping skills, obviously.  If you're lucky, you have a driver to take the pain (we don't).  You choose your music carefully; there's no point listening to heavy rock or nerve-jangling jazz when you can only inch along at 5 kilometers per hour.  You always make sure to have a bottle of fresh water with you, and that everyone has used the loo before you leave the house.  You build in a hefty margin of extra time; if you get there early, great.  Essentially, you prepare for the worst, so things can only be as bad as you expected or better.

Then, you climb in the car, do everything possible to maintain your cool, and you set off.  In Moscow's defence, being stuck in traffic is for some reason nowhere near as stressful here as it is back home.  People allow you to change lanes, for starters.  More often than not, those you let into traffic in front of you acknowledge that fact with a flash of their hazard lights.  Everyone is in the same boat, after all - no point getting aggressive about it (a fact that for some reason seems to escape many drivers caught in jams back in Western Europe, who take things all far too personally).

But however you handle it, this - sadly - is 'the everyday' for anyone who needs to get anywhere by road* in Moscow.


*Since Moscow is huge and the metro - whilst fantastic - has long distances between stops and doesn't serve large sections of the outskirts of the city, that's pretty much everyone...


Tuesday, 14 February 2012

The Greatest Photo I Never Took, #1079

I bet this happens to everyone. You see something, for just a moment, and then a few seconds later - when it's gone - think "Damn! I should have got my camera out! WHY didn't I get my camera out?" Assuming you're not engaged in an activity that would make it dangerous for you to stop and make it happen, there's no excuse really; it's not as if most of us don't have the ability, what with mobile phones now doubling up as cameras.

I'm not sure there are really 1,079 shots that I've missed. I suspect it's far more, if I'm honest, but only a couple spring to mind right now. The first was of the top of one of Moscow's Seven Sisters buildings rising through the clouds on a particularly beautiful morning. I knew I should take that photo, but I was driving at 60km an hour on a 3 lane highway with no hard shoulder at the busiest time of day, so have had to make do with keeping that one as a mental snapshot. But oh, what a beautiful photograph it would have made.

The second - the one that prompted this post - was something I saw on Saturday. It was cold, about minus 18degC, and we were sitting in heavy traffic (yes, I know, cold and traffic; recurrent themes on this blog), driving along Leningradskoe Shosse. I glanced out of the car and saw 2 workmen taking 5 minutes by the side of the road. One of them was holding a pipe upright at right angles to the ground; it ended in a jet of flame at about shoulder level. The other was passing his bare hands through the flame, to warm them up. I reached for my handbag to pull out my phone, but the traffic had started to move again, and they were gone.

So desperately crazy. So bloody cold. So extremely Moscow.

Definitely one of the greatest photos I never took. What was yours?

Tuesday, 4 October 2011

Ode to Traffic: a Haiku

I tangled with the traffic this morning (something of a recurring theme on this blog, I fear), and on returning home read an email from a friend containing a number of haiku's lamenting the shortfalls of computer technology. So I was inspired to write my own. No prizes for guessing the subject matter...


Oh Moscow traffic jam
You are never ending
Sprawling down highways
Like some lazy teen
Too indolent to move

New bus lanes
Add to the chaos
And all but the buses and the ambulances
Are locked
In your choking embrace

With the exception obviously
Of the blue buckets*
To whom normal rules
Do not apply...



With apologies to all the more experienced haiku writers and their fans out there who no doubt can point out a million mistakes in format etc.

*Non Muscovite readers should click here for an explanation of what a 'blue bucket' actually is...